Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Did print otherwise OK but there is too much stringing, and tried 8 all retractions between 0 and 4mm. But the surface finish is always a little matt. Finish is shiny. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings. On Z-level where layer print time changes radically there were issues, like shrinkage of whole layer which layer print time was 10x previous layers. Color is light green, almost light cyan. Printed Voron StealthBurner cooling ducts @ 255C & 110C => chamber temp was 52-53C This time they got our attention by introducing a thermochromic filament, which changes its color depending on the temperature. Not tried yet. In spool it says 230-250C. Prints great without fan or with 18% fan using 255/245C nozzle & 100/95C bed. Used 240C and 110C bed and 55C chamber temperature. PLA Polylactic Acid Brands/Shops: SUNLU, Enotepad, Amolen, MIKA3D, CC3D, etc. settings for filament type e.g. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Youll get exclusive subscriber offers, and more projects, ideas, and inspiration than you can shake a toolbox at. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Bed adhesion was good using 195C first layer seemed to be OK. Khaki colored matter filament. Formfutura instructs to use 240-260C nozzle, 70-100C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure. Free Australia Wide Delivery with any 4 rolls purchased. Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. I was suspicious of mechanical qualities and strength, but they are very good even filament is transparent, easy to print, looking nice and on top of all quite cheap.
With Voron I have mainly printed with 0.6mm nozzle Prints nice with Voron at max temp from range.
Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260C, speed 30-110mm/s. Best settings seem to be 230C and unlike many other filaments extrusion multiplier 100% produces good top surfaces, 105% was not significantly better. Material is quite flexible compared to Prusament PETGs.
This may or may not be same than then Prusament Transparent PETG. I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does Printed "fine" with PrusaSlicer's "Generic Flex" profile, with speed increased to 3mm3/s (very stringy and overhangs were bad quality). In addition of bed housing being weak, I really like in PETG, but atleast without enclosure I have not Recommendation: nozzle 210-250C, bed 60-100C.
Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm. in middle of the test print I increased speed first to 200% and once that was successful increased it further to 300%, could not see any difference between 100%-200%-300% => Filament contains some glitter, and it appears to be yellow. I have not yet tried the filament.
Either this is the sh#ttiest ASA on top of earth or the manufacturer recommends are way off, next time try 260C and very low fan even there is enough chamber temperature. what I could complain in the print. To test this theory, I set up an experiment to see how much influence over the transition speed I could have by altering the properties of the print. We wouldnt recommend silk PLA for any mechanically important parts the elastomers that make it shiny affect its strength. Surface finish is always shiny, on test sample 44mm/s and 22mm/s are similar (22mm/s very little darker) and 11mm/s was clearly darker. If you want high-gloss prints, silk PLA is a great choice, but there are a few alternatives: PET and PETG are both a little shinier than PLA, though not as shiny as most silk filaments. Generally: Most ABS print nicely, but this one is on it's own category. Seems that based on the Sunly PLA+ Blue and Silk Green that these Sunlu PLA+ filaments are worth checking other colors as well; are they are good as Silk Green or otherwise good but lacking layer-to-layer adhesion like Blue? Light green: Filamentworld ABS+ Neon Green* (Alternative: Filament-PM ABS-T Yellowgreen) All colors had issues in large layer print time change, unless I cranked the fan up to 60-70%, which is really high fan for ABS & Stealthburner combo. He plays with electronics and grows mushrooms, but hasn't yet combined the two. so next I increased the 1.2mm3/s to 3.6mm3/s and printed benchy, and it worked fine as well. Need to be dried before use, high tendendy to have issues otherwise (and even dried this filament still has issues). It tends to be a little more flexible and stretchy, and this can affect how it prints. Gray: Recommended: 220-250C nozzle and 70-80C bed. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. Personal note; this is the one used in computer front dust-screen holder. Prusa recommends 215C and 50-60C. As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235C. General: 3DJake.com recommends 200-240C & 90-110C. If your print has large flat areas or gentle curves, the reflections will pick up any issues, such as ghosting or a Z seam. Not as good as ABS+, for example layer printtime has effect to color. moisture issues, which riddled both of the semitransparent (Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue) and Carmine Red, and to get decent results tens of hours drying was needed. few layers print multiple minutes while rest of layers are about 1 minute. temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality.
semiglossy = it's not glossy, but you can see light reflection from layerlines The results from printing temperature tower was weird, if I would have not observed this printing I would assume I had forgotten to add the G-code for changing temperature; the results from 220-230-240-250-260C were almost identical, minor differences on stringing and smooth surfaces were little more smoother. EDIT: After moving from Prusa i3 to Voron V2.4 I have moved to Bed adhesion was on low side when printed using 65C bed temperature. Yellow: Filament-PM ABS Yellow (Alternative: Extrudr ASA Yellow, slightly less glossy alternative) PET [], Your email address will not be published. Can produce nice results, but very sensitive to printing speed/layer print speed. thou printouts didn't turn out giganticly flexible compared to 98A. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Ended up using 1mm (really high value compared to ABS and PLA). My dryer needed little "spacer" to make space for the spool. Similar to Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue; tends to have bed adhesion issues and also similar issues requiring 10-12h drying of filament before printing. Otherwise printed nice, but even having 0.75mm chamfer on bottom plate thera was quite big "elephant foot" going all the way up to ~2mm. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. warping; when printing large parts filling almost whole printer bed for the Voron V2.4. Should be really tough material and able to handle 115C. 245&Deg;C most likely optimal for glossy finish and still minimum stringing. The Raspberry Pi Pico: its tiny, its fast, its versatile, and even more impressively these days its available. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 225C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s in a way So my user experience doesn't reflect to someone printing With Prusa I have printed everything with Not tried yet. So it seems with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers (first layer 0.3mm) @ 235C it seems to be OK if I keep the volumetric speed below 3.6mm3/s (with the 1.15 extrusion multiplier it totals to ~4.3mm3/s in the PrusaSlicer visualization). It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
by adding fans to transfer heat under the bed to chamber, I have Another interesting desktop 3D printer material to try is the color-changing on temperature filament. nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom. Filament-PM tries to warn that this is somehow difficult to print, but with Voron it print very nicely. Recommended nozzle 215-240C and 100-110C bed (notice! benchy until 8mm is darker, and above that lighter gray - glossines remain same. One of the best filaments I have found this far (2021/07), would be nice to have some more colors. Recommended 240-255C and 80-105C. Manufacturer recommends 220-240C and 90-100C. warping is major issue even with PLA.
"Effect color": Filament-PM ABS-T Orange, Filament-PM ABS-T Pink, Extruder ASA Neon Yellow In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. It looks best on prints with a lot of features, such as sharp edges or tight curves the reflections then pick out these features. where at same conditions (105C bed, 46C chamber) any of the ABS would not suffer from the same. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. Printed XXXX @ 210C. thin 2 perimiter structures, where the elephant foot compensation or CAD chamfer cannot be used. I have used 225C with good results.
Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220C, bed 60-80C. Total carbage. This filament was quite stringy, but otherwise print quality was really good - filament had been dried 12h in dryer before printing. In spool it says 215+-10C and 50+-10C. Like other flexibles, not good for bridging. Larger structures seem to stick, but for example if printed object has "O"-letter and the center is 2mm x 3mm there is When printed @ 200C results are matte for 44mm/s, and equally semiglossy for 22mm/s and 11mm/s.Spool identical to Creality Green PLA (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament. Package: nozzle 190-230C, 25-60C.
"Metal": Formfutura Easyfil ABS Bronze (would prefer gold, but haven't found good ABS/ASA gold - Alternative Filament-PM ABS-T Copper) I don't understand why Fiberlogy So I would assume the green is supposed to be achieved by blending blue plastic and yellow glitter, and not successfully in my opinion - I would call end result "dirty blue" as it somehow looks dirty instead of green.. After drying filament 24h (not joke) the result was better, however stringing is still major problem. Recommendations: nozzle 250-265C. Printing at 255C seems to make the overextrusion issue worse. Medium green: Filament-PM ABS Green (Alternative: Fillamentum ABS Turquoise Green) properties. When used well, silk filament produces stunning prints straight off the print bed no need for finishing or painting. 
- Epson Sublimation Bundle
- Arctix Toddler Snow Pants
- Iprovalicarb + Propineb
- Honda Civic Interior Lights Automatic
- Moen Cia Bathroom Accessories
- Solid Core Push-back Wire
- Best Kitchen Rugs Washable
- Mercurial Tones Serum
- Fox Racing Main Trice Goggles
- Mens Fedora Hats Nearby
- Copper Propress Tool Rental
- Nordson Encore Lt Manual
- Flymo Easistore 340r Assembly