The ones that you put up now, will be the outside surfaces. Do not make knots yet because we want to tighten the threads further later on. Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners. PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter. Again we mount the power regulator as we did earlier. The other terminal connects to the single wire that is already attached to the heat-sensor-switch. For that reason I found that it works best to cut it open at its peak. There are multiple positions in which it can be mounted. In the package you find two sorts of filters: micro-filter and motor filter, which is more coarse. First cut a 75mm long piece off the tube. Preserve that feeling a little longer because we still need to make some parts before the final assembly and we start by making rubber shock absorbers and gaskets from bicycle tube. and also the scavenged power-switch and the power regulator module. And we also put marks on the smallest surfaces of the pieces and connect them with the marks we made in the previous step. Glueing the box together should happen in one go, so the glue can dry out evenly afterwards. Sand the marks off and apply some linseed oil (or other finish, if you used something else). Attach "PP14_Electronics-Compartment_Upper-Part" with 4 screws and washers. For that we will need: You can already slide the sliders (PP1002) into the base (PP1003), just like in the second picture, Step 184: Put the Collected Parts Together, Make two stacks of three rubber parts each, place them on the "celtic cross" (PP1008) and put the motor-adaptor (PP1003) on top. Drill a 20mm-hole where you made a 20mm-mark before. 
Aluminum-foil, 2.6m of rope (up to 6mm) or old shoelaces, strong thread and generic vacuum cleaner filter fabric. flip them lengthwise or you will run into problems. When doing so, you can refer to the picture above for how to arrange the boards. Next we want to drill holes into the feet, so you should let the glue dry for sveral hours. When you deem the part properly aligned, trace the 4 screw-holes. LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. To make the motor gasket, we need to cut the tube open. Put the partly assembled electronics compartment on the board, and check the other side to align the interface carefully with the holes we drilled for it. This project turns that trash into a resource: Tenok is a DIY vacuum cleaner that can be equipped with any used vacuum cleaner motor and hose! First measure how wide your tube is when you press it flat on the table. Thread the rope from above through the other handle-holder and make a knot in the other end. There are two types of those switches: One is normally open (NO) and the other is normally closed (NC). Though this tutorial might look a bit intimidating because it has so many steps, give it a second glance: Yes it is long, but that is because there are no skipped steps and every task is explained in detail. f e(T5iGDI7 The result are marks that form diagonal crosses through the center of the boards. You can use the line-drawing in the beginning of the tutorial to identify the correct part. Tip: Bicycle shops are a great source for old bicycle tube. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. If they don't fit, tweak them a bit. Why buying an expensive cyclone vacuum cleaner when you can build yourself one? The linked tutorial does not use an old scarf, but a towel instead, but close enough I would say. ### PLEASE ALSO NOTE: DETAILLED TOOL LIST BELOW! Attach "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" on the bottom inside the box with two screws and washers. Step 183: Collect Parts for the Rear Motor Holder. Cleaning hose, pipe and nozzle is easy: Just fill them with hot soapwater and shake them. motors vacuum diy Remove the nuts and washers from the M8-hex-bolts. Now the electronics are ready to go into Tenok. Recycling trash and e-waste by combining traditional and digital crafts! Again, start by putting some glue on the wall that seperates the chambers (or more precisely on the foil that covers it now). 
Step 177: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 1/2. does the trick perfectly. You do so by screwing the screw that goes through the inner part of the motor-holder in and out. Refer to the drawing for how to arrange the boards correctly. REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Draw horizontal and vertical lines through the center of the square boards. corners with a pencil as shown in the pictures. Align the printed part "PP1001_Turbine-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the board. For that cut out a 130x20mm piece of wood. If you do not have a 40mm-drill, you can carefully cut those holes out with a jigsaw instead (like in the next step). On the third picture I connected them to give you an idea how the circuit looks. LEFT-side-surface2 / RIGHT-side-surface2 / INLET-side-surface2. Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" to the rear hatch with a screw and washer each.
From above, put "PP17_Electronics-air-inlet_Grid" into it's place in the electronics compartment. It does not matter, which cable goes where, but mounting is easier when the power cable that comes from the bottom is attached closer to the end of the part. Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. Drill (2x) 8mm-holes where you made a 8mm-mark before. Remember that I wrote that I changed the handle design after I made the photos for this tutorial? How to tell which side is the inside, now that the marks are sanded off? For the ABS parts you should put an enclosure around the printer / print-chamber to avoid warping. 1.)
Align the feet with the edges of the bottom and clamp them to the box. Hoses do not only come as single and double spiral versions, but also in different diameters, so I made 11 adaptors each for single (PP02-. 
Flip the boards upside down, so that they lie in front of you as in the picture. Now cut out the circular filter you traced on the micro-filter-fabric. Drill each hole about 13 mm deep. In the end we will have this circuit in the vacuum cleaner: An on/off-switch, which is connected to the power regulator that controls how fast the motor is running and a heat-sensor-switch to turn everything off when it gets too warm that's it. Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. Now trace the four screw holes with a pencil. You are the manufacturer, so you can use, repair and maintain Tenok your whole life! I bought two 80x25cm boards and one 100x20cm board and cut them further in a maker-space. The power regulator controls the speed at wich the motor spins. Place the rubber cable-gasket in the already mounted outer part of the Cable-Holder (PP06) on the central wall that seperates the motor chamber from the bag chamber. Take a close look at the two parts to see how you need to orient the grid so it fits into the base. Step 82: Drill Into, But NOT Through the Wood. Step 194: Electronics Compartment / Air Inlet Filter. The holes in the corners of the adaptor should approximately align with the holes in the rubber parts and holes in the celtic cross, Before we fix the motor-adaptor to the celtic-cross, check if it will align well with the mounting-holes in the back of the motor. Prepare the power regulator module by removing the plastic-knob that comes with it and unscrew the small nut from the shaft under the knob. If you are unsure what I mean, compare this picture with the previous one. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards. bogie bogies brakes vacuum Our website uses cookies to enhance the site operation and understand traffic and website performance. It will stick out on both sides but that is fine. After letting the glue dry, we can remove the clamps and make some marks in the corners of the feet. However I adjusted the dimensions for the final design that you are building). For this project that works better than listing them here. Slide PP20 into PP14, so that it sticks out on the other side. Making the wooden enclosure does not require elaborate wood-working skills and all other structural parts can be 3D-printed using a standard FDM-printer like a Prusa. . Draw a line on each of the wooden pieces. If you scavenge a switch that looks different, you will need to go on searching, because only this one fits at the moment. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. When you do not remember what goes where just go back to the step where we assembled the electronics compartment for the first time. TOP OUTSIDE: Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). At first sight, single and double spiral hoses look pretty much the same, but you can easily distinguish them: You might have noticed that vacuum cleaner hoses have a thread that runs all around them. Now all the functional parts and cable connections are in the box. In the first picture you can see how they need to be arranged. drivingenthusiast You can adjust the position of the motor holders when the motor is not mounted. If you do not remeber their location just go back and check where they are supposd to be. I also made a detailled tool list with pictures as part of the instructions. 
You can pre-drill screw holes or if you used soft wood just rambo them in without. (T LK^2^\LUW}`:cX=$3-AP}L
r.3(6ePJh"i`OWbJzTRtK 9. If you do not buy the wood pre-cut, but cut it yourself think about a smart order, so you do not need to change the length-stop too often many of the dimensions are identical. TOP OUTSIDE: Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. /5iTLV I. The 8mm in the drawing are measured from the edge of the surface we have marked before. Attach the castors by pressing their rods into the holes we drilled in the feet of the box. Like with the hatch, cut the foil at least 5mm (better 10mm) from the edge to avoid having a conductive bridge from the motor chamber to the outside later. Tim Krahmer came across this research when he was a student at the Lund University School of Industrial Design in Sweden.
Attach the foil and press it flat with your palm or the bottom of the glue container. Put a fender washer on one of the 40mm-M5-hex-bolts, put it through the rubber and the printed part, put a fender washer on the end of the bolt and screw the whole package tight with an M5-nut (fourth picture). Step 38: Assemble the Electronics Compartment.
Easy: It has the screw holes for the rear-hatch-gasket-holder (PP1009). Tighten the threads with a bow. I needed a vacuum pump for making some FRP parts, so I modded an aquarium air pump for that. Sure! Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. For the next steps we do not need the two slender pieces so you can put them aside. Follow it with your finger or a sharpie marker around the hose to see if it is a single thread or a double thread. Tie the bag to the bag-coupling (PP12) on the front hatch with a bow. The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter. vacuum motor cleaner Next we want to trace the screw-holes of the electronics compartment. Now you need to let the box rest, so the glue can dry ideally for 24 hours, if you are patient enough, but over night is also OK.
- Sanibest Pro Installation Manual
- Half-day Small Group Guided Tour Of Mykonos
- How-to Use Motion Pro Bearing Remover
- Zodiac Pool Vacuum Parts
- Paper Mache Bowl Ideas
- Peter Millar Women's Golf Shirts
- Nike Blazer Mid '77 Men's Orange
- Cleen Beauty Rosehip Jelly Face Cleanser
- Organza Ribbon Near New York, Ny
- Loopy Loyalty Alternative
- Bohemian Fashion 2022